It was the end of February and after debating about skiing (and finding out it that it was rather expensive) we booked a short-trip to Germany to visit two of our friends: Ursula in Berlin and Vadim in Darmstadt. We went there at the beginning of March 2017.
Arriving in Berlin
Arriving in Berlin we took the airport bus to Ursula’s house in the north of the city. She’s been my friend for just over a year. I met her at an introductory course to rock climbing. She’s German and after a couple of years in London, she had enough of it and moved back with English boyfriend in tow. We were greeted by a beautiful flat and homemade traditional German soup. This was our first real experience of Wurst (German sausages).
Day 1: Touristy Berlin
After waking up, the first stop was the local bakery to pick up some sugary pastries for breakfast. They’re much sweeter than the English variety. We then wound our way along the river Spree, across the Tiergarten to the Bundestag and Brandenburg Gate.
The Bunderstag and The Memorial to the Jews
West Berlin is an interesting blend of architecture. From the large domineering buildings of the Reich to more modern day subtle architecture. Just south of the gate, is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews. It is made up of 2,711 concrete slabs which loom up like a giant maze. Whilst, it appears stark at the beginning, your inner child quickly emerges. Darting through the cold walls playing tag and hiding from others (well just Ivan). There is warm somberness about the place.
After noticing a fire exit door coming form below, we realised that there was in fact a museum beneath the concrete. The museum gives an interesting account of the holocaust. Much of the information I already knew from GCSE history and a recent visit to Auschwitz. Yet, my mood was slightly different this time as Ivan’s great grandmother was Jewish. Searching for her name really did bring into focus the enormity and devastation of that time.
Lunch and checkpoint Charlie
After lunch in a German restaurant (we had schnitzel and pork steak), we made our way south to Checkpoint Charlie and then onto the Topography of Terror Museum. Memories flashed back to GCSE history lessons with Mrs Bennet. I remember at the time thinking how could something like that happen? Yet there are increasing similarities with our own current political environment with the growing sway to the right. It is an interesting insight into the time and the propaganda that was used.
The Bunderstag Dome
At the top of the Bunderstag (German parliament) there is a large glass dome with good views across Berlin. Which you’re allowed to visit. A pretty amazing idea really, can you imagine people trapsing into Parliament as part of a tourist excursion. It is best to go to the ticket office early in the morning (remember your ID) and you can book a slot. It is free which is even better.
At the top we took some nice pictures as the sun began to set over Berlin. If you like nice sunsets, make sure you book a slot at the appropriate time:
In the evening, we met up with Ursula and went to a lovely Nepalese restaurant – I had my usual Saag Panner and it was amazing.
Day 2: East side
On the second day, having had a full dose of WW2, we made our way to the East. You can buy a day travel card which gives you access to all the buses and trains. We got off at Warschauer Strasse and had a brief wander along the East Side gallery:
Next stop we went to Kronberg. It is the ‘trendy’ Shoreditch area of Berlin. I remember going here on a university trip and being in awe with the coolness and grittiness of the area. Perhaps I’m just getting old or I’ve just become a Londoner. But it seemed rather over-priced and try hard. We did, however, go to an incredible book shop (which had a great collection of magazines and comic books). There’s also the Museum of Things. It is basically clutter: moomin dolls, sewing machines, salt and pepper pots in the shape of boobs, mobile phones, water bottles. I loved it, especially the vintage furniture. It was fun as well, as Ivan pointed out some old school Russian toys.
We made our way home, briefly stopping at the shops at Alexanderplatz. There’s a French candy shop called La Cure Gourmande, where the chocolate covered almonds that look like olives are great. Although the trips up the tower is overpriced there are some free trampolines:
In the evening Ivan gave me a brief coding lesson in Python, we then joined Ursula and Ben at another local restaurant. We shared an Eisbein (a pork knuckle) which was pretty yum. It was huge!
Day 3: Train to Darmstadt
We boarded an ICE train to Frankfurt and there switched to another train to Darmstadt. It took us around 4 hours to get to Frankfurt Central and then about 20-30 more minutes until we got to Darmstadt.
The European Space Agency
Vadim works at the European Space Agency. We were in Darmstadt in the afternoon, so met him at his work. We took our stuff to his place and then went for a quick tour around the Space Agency.
We saw one of their control rooms and got briefed on what projects they are currently working on, how work and life there feels like and so on. Finally we had some tea in their canteen.
After walking around the space agency, Becky and I decided to go for a walk for her to see Darmstadt. We walked around the town centre, had some food in one of the many restaurants around and then we went back home to Vadim’s.
Day 4: Wiesbaden
There was not much to do in Darmstadt, so after a brief discussion, we decided to take the train and have a day trip to the nearby town of Wiesbaden. It’s around 45 minutes away on the train from Darmstadt and it reminded us a lot of the UK town of Bath. Compared to the rest of the German cold and concrete towns we saw on our trip so far, this place felt warm and very Roman.
In Wiesbaden we went for a walk along the center. There was a very nice Saturday market next to the cathedral with all kinds of local produce and crafty stuff. We saw the amazing Kurhaus, which now functions as a fancy casino, restaurant, etc. There was a surgeon conference on the day we were there. Then we went for a walk up the hill towards Neroberg, which opens a great view towards the Rhine Valley. We also wanted to take a ride on the funicular on the way back down, but it was not working that day. Finally, we went to an area full of Turkish restaurants, we had some food and it was time to head back home.
Day 5: Back to London
Our trip was over and we had an afternoon flight to catch back to London. We took the airport shuttle bus from Darmstadt to Frankfurt airport and this was it.
Our thoughts on Germany
Our trip to Germany was very thought provoking. The monuments in Berlin just make you think about what life has been like there in the years after the war. The areas around East Berlin reminded me a lot of Moscow and other Russian and Eastern European towns I’ve been to. Lots of our friends had already moved there and almost everyone back home was telling us how cool Berlin was. While it was very interesting, educational and eye opening, we both didn’t feel like this is our place on this planet to settle down in at this point in time.
